Run, Rabbit Run

Small donkey, big load

Aswan 11.12.2011

This is the last post from Aswan! Tomorrow I will be on the boat to Sudan, and if everything goes smoothly with ferry and paperwork, I and Wombosi will be out of the port on Wednesday evening, ready for the last couple of kilometers to Addis Ababa.

The man with the silk scarf

My week has been good, in fact, far better than last week. Last Monday I was far down, but towards the evening I decided that I had mourned enough, and started to focus on what I could do to reach Addis in time before Christmas. To get an Ethiopian Visa was the obvious thing to do, and it turned out to be a success.

Tuesday evening I took the night train to Cairo (14 hours). Having a seat, it was a rather comfortable ride. I’d hoped to be able to get the Visa in one day, so I wouldn’t have to sleep in Cairo, but that was not possible. The time in Cairo was good though. I met a man named Said, and had two long and good conversations with him, over several cups of tea.

Public water

Thursday I picked up my passport with a three month visa for Ethiopia in it, so if I get fat and lazy during Christmas, I can stay in Addis until the 6^th of March.

The journey back to Aswan was of the less comfortable kind. I was too late to get a ticket, so I had to buy one on the train, which meant that I would not have a seat. The next 14 hours consisted of 2 hour sleep, one hour in a seat and the rest of the time sitting and standing around between the carriages. The surprising thing is that I didn’t mind. I have been so focused on Addis that whatever I do to get there has made me happy.

Crossing speed-bumps 

Friday I had to get some sleep, and Saturday I, (and the rest of the overlanders) got the good news that all of us would leave on Monday. We even got to buy the tickets, so there’s no turning back this time.

That done, I thought it was time for a last trip with Ahmed. We went to his village 70 kilometers north of Aswan, and stayed at his family there over the night. All the pictures are from there, since the other memory card with the pictures from Cairo mysteriously disappeared.

Fertile soil

The time in the village was good. In the evening we hung out at what we would call the local pub and played domino. In the “pub” here the people drink tea instead of whiskey, there are only men over 20 hanging out and of course everything is under the open sky (and the full moon on this occasion). In the morning we went to the river, meeting lots of donkey-riders on our way.

White man on the riverbank

This culture has its good and its bad sides. It also has its different sides, like the local clothing of the men, consisting of a robe and a silk-scarf (see pictures). The gender division is extreme, temper is high, everyone smokes a lot and honor is very important. The hospitality is great, belief strong and tea good.

I will be leaving Egypt with a mixed experience. I have not entered any culture along my way so deeply as the Egyptian, and think that my picture of it is quite accurate. The people are generally very friendly and good minded, but to some extend the society seems to be stuck quite far behind.

Donkeyriders in robes

As for the political situation, what happens now is far from freedom. The military still has a firm grip on everything, and the money does not reach the people. If the Muslim brotherhood would win the election, and actually get some power, I fear that religious freedom will be even more put aside than now, and the women’s rights shrinking. Egypt has a long way to go, but at least it seems to be walking.

Taxi

I do believe that I have left a positive mark on Ahmed. I have tried to be an example, and have also given my opinion on a number of things. He has decided to try to stop smoking, and even though I think he won’t manage, he has reduced his consume from 60 to 20 cigarettes a day. He is also eager to make a radical change in his lifestyle, get back to education, or get himself a proper work.

Both with Ahmed and with Said, I’ve had good conversations on religion. I think they see how God goes with me, gives me confidence and love. I have given Ahmed a new testament (thanks to Nikolai who gave it to me), and hope he will read in it, and take heart from the message of love and forgiveness. Here the “revenge for honor”-thinking still is so alive.

Ahmed is ready to eat

The village

Now my longing for my family is so big that I won’t linger (by will) before I am in Addis. Besides, my Sudanese Visa expires on the 19^th, so by then I have to be in Ethiopia, so I’ll report back to you from there some time shortly after that.